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Although no charter survives from that time, there is evidence that Peebles was one of the first royal burghs of Scotland from the reign of David I (1124-1153), and the town was a popular haunt of several Scottish monarchs in the centuries that followed. King James I (1406-1437) wrote poetry and is often credited with writing one of the earliest comic poems in Scots, Peblis to the Play, which begins "At Beltane..." and describes some of the fun that the townsfolk and visitors enjoyed on the occasion of the Beltane Fair: dancing, drinking and generally letting their hair down. The word "Beltane" refers to a Celtic fire festival which marked the end of the winter, and normally took place at the beginning of May. In later years the town council decided to move the date of the festival to midsummer, coinciding with the Riding of the Marches. When the Beltane Fair is proclaimed at the Mercat Cross as the first ceremony on Beltane Saturday, mention is made of "King James the Sixth of blessed memory" who, in a charter dated 1621, granted the burgh the right to continue holding several fairs, including Beltane, which had been granted by his predecessors. One of the festival songs exhorts everyone, whether Peebles exile, friend or stranger to "Come owre the hills to

Peebles" where they will be sure of a warm welcome at Beltane.As with other burghs, the common riding was at one time a necessary procedure, re-asserting the rights of the residents to make use of the common land and resisting any attempts at encroachment by neighbouring landowners. In Peebles the practice lapsed at the beginning of Queen Victoria's reign, probably because property laws were well established and the March Riding had become more ceremonial. To celebrate the Queen's Diamond Jubilee it was decided to revive the event after a 60-year gap, which proved a great success, attracting over 70 horsemen, including one veteran who had ridden in 1837. With the exception of the two World Wars the Riding of the Marches, or Cornet's Canter, has taken place every year since 1897, although in a modified form in 2001, the year of foot-and-mouth disease, when the Cornet was followed by hundreds of cyclists. When the Cornet is installed, early on the Wednesday evening, he undertakes to return the Burgh Standard unstained and unsullied in a year's time, and the Chairman of the Beltane Committee bids him "Safe oot, safe in". With his Lass in attendance and accompanied by the three previous Cornets and their Lasses he sets off to lead his cavalcade round the traditional route. Since 1929 the Cornet and his party have ridden to Neidpath Castle, where they are welcomed by the Warden of Neidpath (an honorary appointment for one year) who gives an address on an appropriate theme. (The author John Buchan is probably the most famous person to have performed this duty.)The castle, an old Border peel tower sitting above a bend of the River Tweed, bearing the scars of an assault by Cromwell's army, is a good place to reflect on the history of the town and to contemplate the future.

From there the Cornet and his mounted followers progress up over Morning Hill and then ford the River Tweed at Haylodge Park on their way to Peebles Golf Course, where several races are held. The most prestigious is the Beltane Bell, a revival of an ancient race which used to take place from Nether Horsbrugh to Peebles. Since 1913 the trophy used has been a replica of the Liberty Bell at Philadelphia, presented to the festival by Peebles expatriates in the USA. The last event of the evening, the Cornet's Reel, is an eightsome reel performed on the High Street by Cornet, Supporters and Lasses with the music provided by Peebles Ex-Servicemen's Pipe Band.

In 1899 it was decided that a new ceremony should be introduced to the festival. A girl from Kingsland School was chosen to be Beltane Queen, and with her classmates in attendance she was crowned with due dignity at the Mercat Cross. In 1900 the Crowning took place on the broad steps of Peebles Old Parish Church, a fine setting for a pageant offering good views for spectators on the High Street. There it has taken place ever since except when re-located for safety reasons during the Second World War. The ceremonial has built up during the years to include not just the crowning of the Queen, but also the presentation of the sceptre, proclamation, reading of telegrams, and the singing of festival songs, all carried out with grace and formality. The Beltane Queen is attended by pages, courtiers and maids and a guard of honour comprising sailors, archers and beefeaters. Four hundred children from the local primary schools in fancy dress complete the colourful picture on the church steps. The crowning is performed by a lady chosen each year, normally in recognition of some service to the community.

Following the crowning the Queen tours her realm in a grand procession led by the Cornet and his mounted followers. The Queen, pages and maids are conveyed in two red horse-drawn carriages, double victorias, which were purchased by public subscription in 1986. The children in fancy dress are carried round the town on lorries with musical accompaniment from silver bands and pipe bands. At several places en route the procession is halted while a local lawyer performs a duty which used to be carried out by the Town Clerk, proclaiming the burgh boundaries.

The morning's events end on a more sombre and reflective note with an impressive ceremony at the War Memorial. The memorial, surely one of the most beautiful in Scotland with its intricate mosaic work and elaborate copper dome, sits in a quadrangle beside the Burgh Hall, an area of relative calm only a few yards from the hurly-burly of the High Street. It was in 1927 that the Beltane Queen first placed a wreath there in memory of those who had died in the Great War. Nowadays wreaths are also laid by the Cornet, Crowning Lady and Committee Chairman, and solemn music played by local bands.

One other historic location features in the Beltane Festival, namely the Crosskirk, founded by Alexander III in 1261 and later extended to include a monastery. It was occupied by the Red or Trinity Friars and dedicated to St Nicholas. Following the Reformation it was used at various times by Episcopalians, Covenanters and Presbyterians, and served as the parish church until it fell into ruin in 1784 and was abandoned. Weather permitting the week of the festival begins with a service in the grounds of the old church, an event initiated in 1930 by Dr Clement Gunn, a well-respected GP and local historian who also founded the Neidpath ceremony. A local clergyman performs the duties of Warden of the Crosskirk, welcoming those who will take leading roles in the festival and giving an address which sets the tone for the week.

The festival includes events which appeal to different age groups and interests: children's sports, primary discos, a concert featuring the Beltane Queen's Standard Ceremony, professional sports, hockey, football and archery. One of the most popular is the Fancy Dress Parade, which was begun in 1907 as a parade of decorated cycles, but nowadays attracts many imaginatively-disguised participants on foot and in lorries. The week ends with the Beating of Retreat on the High Street, usually performed by a pipe band and a silver band; this event was introduced in 1956 and has retained its place as a fitting way to bring down the curtain on the festivities.